Although bicycle is a relatively simple mechanical device, many cyclists focus on only one or two areas.
When it comes to maintenance, they may only clean their bicycles or good lubricants, or make sure their gears and brakes work properly, but many other maintenance tasks are often forgotten.
This paper focuses on the often neglected field of bicycle maintenanc, and provides some skills on how to carry out this maintenance and prevent it from being damaged due to improper maintenance.
1. Head bowl group
Even seemingly well maintained bicycles tend to cover up the damaged front bowl set bearings. They may be eroded by your sweat and may rust and damage.
To prevent this, first remove the front and lower the frame of the front fork. This is the simplest step. The newer frame will have sealed bearings, which just need a thin layer of grease on the surface. Then reconnect all this together.
If you haven't checked for too long and the bearing is rough, you must try to replace the new front bowl set.
This is also a perfect time to check your front fork steering for any signs of pressure or damage. Be sure to check the place close to the bearing contact and the stem clamp there.
2. Variable speed conduit
The transmission line pipe may be broken and worn, making you uncomfortable on the road. This is the case for the old 9 and 10 Speed Shimano group variable speed conduit.
These conduits will continue to bend, displace, and weaken over time.
Suppose you have an external conduit to transfer the relevant transmission to the largest gear. Now, with the transmission in which the chain remains consistent in this position, the stopped crank and clicker fall all the way in the opposite way - this will release all the pressure from the conduit, and you need to dredge it.
Check the conduit for any signs of wear or kink and replace it immediately if any.
If no signs of damage are found, drop some dry chain lubricant on the conduit and work through the housing section.
3. Foot pedal
Many cyclists repair almost everything, but they always ignore the pedal - even install the old pedal on a brand-new bicycle.
Many pedals can be tightened or kept rotating smoothly, but the pedal body on the wearing splint surface is not fixed, and off-axis movement can lead to knee pain and other problems.
4. Rear axle
Although a good freewheeling noise is a common belief in quality, most rear axles should not sound like a Harley.
If your rear axle has made an unnatural sound continuously, it is likely to be too dry or there are stones, which should be paid attention to.
With the correct instructions and tools (usually Allen key and / or cone wrench, or vice), this is not a long work. Be sure to read the processing technology of your hub carefully before starting, and be careful not to drop small parts.
Many high-quality brands will specify their own lubricants. To ensure that you do not sag or lower the chain, it is usually best to use the recommended lubricant. If in doubt, with thin grease or thick oil, standard grease will often cause resistance and adhesion.
5. Chain
It is important to keep the chain clean and lubricated, but don't forget to often calculate the service time of the chain.
To take an extreme example, many professional teams change chains every 1000 kilometers, so they rarely wear tapes or sprockets in the past three seasons.
Of course, this is not the condition for daily riders to change the chain, which is often meaningful, but it does give you an idea. If you keep changing the chain for a certain time, you will get a lot of convenience in life.
6. Transmission hanger
The transmission hanger of modern road bicycles is made of flexible soft alloy, so if your conversion is not perfect, check whether your transmission hangs straight.
If your bike has a derailer under the side, you should always check that the derailer has not been offset. Otherwise, you won't know what's wrong until the chain breaks away from the spokes.
If you are keen on doing it yourself, dag-2 is the most affordable and reliable hanging tool on the market. Brand quality is guaranteed.
7. Tire
Be sure to check your front and rear tires before traveling to make sure they are not punctured.
Carefully observe the tread and sidewall. If your tire flattens in the center, it may be worn. Any protruding glass or conduit must be removed. If the tire is pierced through the sleeve, it is considered to replace it.
8. Brake pad
The brake pads have wear indicators. If there are traces left, they can be easily seen, but they are very uniform. Are they still connected with the rim?
If not, you can use a simple tool to find more uneven wear pads. Once you adjust them, they can touch correctly.
In similar instructions, your pull rod should have a light feeling, and you can pull the brake without too much force. If this is not the case, consider replacing your brake tubing.
9. Loose and rattling parts
The rattling sound can be avoided. Some places may be damaged by the bicycle. For most parts, it is the simplest to find the reason for the unnatural sound.
At first, under your seat bag, check for loose kettle frame bolts and jingling parts. Surprisingly, the bike has a slightly loose bottle cage.
Other common causes are very loose frames, hubs or head bowl groups. The clapper is another, but the problem is, depending on the construction, it is difficult to solve.
The releasable sprocket bolts can disguise themselves as a squeaky bottom support or pedal.
Different tools for sprocket bolts. Some brands need a 6mm and / or 5mm hex wrench. Others now use the torx-30 and need a sprocket bolt tool. Cnw-2 is a cheap and effective choice.
10. Handlebar belt
Too many cyclists use torn, broken or old and compressed handlebars. It is cheap and convenient. Like new tires, it can bring new life to any bicycle.
n how to carry out this maintenance and prevent it from being damaged due to improper maintenance.
1. Head bowl group
Even seemingly well maintained bicycles tend to cover up the damaged front bowl set bearings. They may be eroded by your sweat and may rust and damage.
To prevent this, first remove the front and lower the frame of the front fork. This is the simplest step. The newer frame will have sealed bearings, which just need a thin layer of grease on the surface. Then reconnect all this together.
If you haven't checked for too long and the bearing is rough, you must try to replace the new front bowl set.
This is also a perfect time to check your front fork steering for any signs of pressure or damage. Be sure to check the place close to the bearing contact and the stem clamp there.
2. Variable speed conduit
The transmission line pipe may be broken and worn, making you uncomfortable on the road. This is the case for the old 9 and 10 Speed Shimano group variable speed conduit.
These conduits will continue to bend, displace, and weaken over time.
Suppose you have an external conduit to transfer the relevant transmission to the largest gear. Now, with the transmission in which the chain remains consistent in this position, the stopped crank and clicker fall all the way in the opposite way - this will release all the pressure from the conduit, and you need to dredge it.
Check the conduit for any signs of wear or kink and replace it immediately if any.
If no signs of damage are found, drop some dry chain lubricant on the conduit and work through the housing section.
3. Foot pedal
Many cyclists repair almost everything, but they always ignore the pedal - even install the old pedal on a brand-new bicycle.
Many pedals can be tightened or kept rotating smoothly, but the pedal body on the wearing splint surface is not fixed, and off-axis movement can lead to knee pain and other problems.
4. Rear axle
Although a good freewheeling noise is a common belief in quality, most rear axles should not sound like a Harley.
If your rear axle has made an unnatural sound continuously, it is likely to be too dry or there are stones, which should be paid attention to.
With the correct instructions and tools (usually Allen key and / or cone wrench, or vice), this is not a long work. Be sure to read the processing technology of your hub carefully before starting, and be careful not to drop small parts.
Many high-quality brands will specify their own lubricants. To ensure that you do not sag or lower the chain, it is usually best to use the recommended lubricant. If in doubt, with thin grease or thick oil, standard grease will often cause resistance and adhesion.
5. Chain
It is important to keep the chain clean and lubricated, but don't forget to often calculate the service time of the chain.
To take an extreme example, many professional teams change chains every 1000 kilometers, so they rarely wear tapes or sprockets in the past three seasons.
Of course, this is not the condition for daily riders to change the chain, which is often meaningful, but it does give you an idea. If you keep changing the chain for a certain time, you will get a lot of convenience in life.
6. Transmission hanger
The transmission hanger of modern road bicycles is made of flexible soft alloy, so if your conversion is not perfect, check whether your transmission hangs straight.
If your bike has a derailer under the side, you should always check that the derailer has not been offset. Otherwise, you won't know what's wrong until the chain breaks away from the spokes.
If you are keen on doing it yourself, dag-2 is the most affordable and reliable hanging tool on the market. Brand quality is guaranteed.
7. Tire
Be sure to check your front and rear tires before traveling to make sure they are not punctured.
Carefully observe the tread and sidewall. If your tire flattens in the center, it may be worn. Any protruding glass or conduit must be removed. If the tire is pierced through the sleeve, it is considered to replace it.
8. Brake pad
The brake pads have wear indicators. If there are traces left, they can be easily seen, but they are very uniform. Are they still connected with the rim?
If not, you can use a simple tool to find more uneven wear pads. Once you adjust them, they can touch correctly.
In similar instructions, your pull rod should have a light feeling, and you can pull the brake without too much force. If this is not the case, consider replacing your brake tubing.
9. Loose and rattling parts
The rattling sound can be avoided. Some places may be damaged by the bicycle. For most parts, it is the simplest to find the reason for the unnatural sound.
At first, under your seat bag, check for loose kettle frame bolts and jingling parts. Surprisingly, the bike has a slightly loose bottle cage.
Other common causes are very loose frames, hubs or head bowl groups. The clapper is another, but the problem is, depending on the construction, it is difficult to solve.
The releasable sprocket bolts can disguise themselves as a squeaky bottom support or pedal.
Different tools for sprocket bolts. Some brands need a 6mm and / or 5mm hex wrench. Others now use the torx-30 and need a sprocket bolt tool. Cnw-2 is a cheap and effective choice.
10. Handlebar belt
Too many cyclists use torn, broken or old and compressed handlebars. It is cheap and convenient. Like new tires, it can bring new life to any bicycle.
